Wonderworks of Water

It's difficult to imagine any element of Balinese life without the presence of water in one form or another. The tropical climate, rice cultivation systems, and the use of water as a symbol in the religion 'Agama Tirta', all have formed the Balinese way of life.


Taman Ujung Water Palace, Karangasem.


Such is the importance of water in Balinese life. Even in death, water is a fundamental element to aide in the release of the soul, such as in the rituals that follow after the deceased has gone through cremation (see Craft & Culture).



Tirta holy water being distributed at a temple prayer (above) - photo by Gustra; and typically Balinese sculpted water gardens of Karangasem’s Tirta Gangga (below).




The Bale Kambang of the Kertagosa Hall of Justice in Klungkung.


In the rice fields tended by farmers, water is a central part of life. Its distribution from the mountain lakes through an intricate design of terraced rice fields is a tribute to human cooperation, closely working with nature and with persistence. So interweaved is the agrarian life, close to streams and open fields, forming a way of life for generations. Diminishing lakes and reservoirs would pose a threat to an ancient inheritance. And through the current challenges faced by the Balinese in preserving their heritage, their spiritual practices and manners remain curiously adamant, as it is well known, throughout various major trying circumstances.

The highlight of any temple ceremony is when all prayers are concluded with sprinkles of tirta or holy water distributed by the priests. The cool drops on the head and face after a long temple ritual spark an awakening within all worshippers, a tangible sense of blessing. However, should a sudden downpour occur amidst an open-crowd temple ceremony, soaking the elaborate ceremonial decorations and flooding the grass or dirt temple grounds, the groups at first run in panic for shelter but after awhile they'll smile and realize, "so be it, blessing… tirta from the heavens!"

And Bali is blessed with four large lakes in its central highlands, namely Buyan, Tamblingan, Beratan and Batur, plus the innumerable springs and streams distributing the water throughout the valleys and lowlands. Throughout history various water palaces and sculpted water gardens were built upon or near them, many with royal and sacred backgrounds or the presence of temples on or alongside their structures.

As shaded rivers are more communal, the royalty in the past had their special bathing places constructed. The sculpted water garden settings that you may witness being adopted throughout the architectural designs of your hotel have typically Balinese characteristics. They owe much of their inspiration to the present remains of various water themed places and traditional buildings such as the Tirta Empul temple in the village of Tampaksiring, 36 kilometers north of Denpasar. The name of the major temple in the vicinity is taken from the holy spring located within the temple grounds, hence its name 'sprouting ground water'. The spring feeds the Pakerisan River, which is further dotted with many important archaeological finds or better put, proof of historical Balinese civilization.

The floating pavilion or Bale Kambang of Klungkung's Kertagosa Hall of Justice has been adopted for its style for use in various hotels and villas. Waterspouts and floating stepping stones owe their inspiration to Tirta Gangga.

Karangasem also possesses another local treasure. The majestic Taman Ujung water palace is about 5 kilometers southeast of the capital of Amlapura, or 80 kilometers east of Denpasar. The 10 hectare water garden is located near the eastern coast, but on a relatively high slope, providing a scenic and distinctive panorama. Once a resting place for the Raja of Karangasem, Taman Ujung was built with a fusion of European and traditional Balinese architecture. The Raja, an autodidact architect, was hands-on on its construction. In 1937 Taman Ujung was expanded with various monuments and statues.

The eruption of Mount Agung in 1963 and severe quakes in 1976 brought the water palace down into crumbles and ruins. However, the structures and gardens have now been rebuilt and renovated and the green lawns and ponds now attract holidaying students and locals alike.

The Taman Ayun Temple, close to the main road leading to North and West Bali, is beautifully arranged alongside a once wide bathing pool, with wide courts and beautiful shrines. Taman Ayun was developed during the kingdom of Mengwi in the 17th Century, whose founder was also behind the Ulun Danu temple on the banks of Lake Beratan.

The temple's area is divided into four courtyards. A natural pool to the west is fed by a small river and a dam. On the east side of the main complex, an Ulun Suwi shrine is dedicated to the god of fertility, closely related to harvest and irrigation.

These structures are the tangible edifices of the flowing spirit of the Balinese, and like water, hopefully will ever exist throughout challenges of change and time, which neither quake nor the bombardments of globalization can demolish.

By Nyoman Dana, photos by Ari Gunadi